NEWS
Sauternes…
On the left bank of the Garrone, and just to the south of the great estates of Chateau Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion (also known for their great white wines), lie the five villages in Graves that make the exquisite sweet white wines known collectively as Sauternes. They include Sauternes, Barsac, Preignac, Fargues, and Bommes.
This region is located near a small cold water spring called the Cérons, which meets the warmer waters of the Garrone to create the misty conditions, that help breed the “noble rot” that separates these wines from those of the rest of the world. It’s a fungus that ruptures the grape skins in the late summer, predisposing the grapes to desiccation. Thus, the wines are viscous or honey-like, often with hints of apricots and pineapples. These delicious wines are also high in alcohol and acid, allowing them to age almost indefinitely. Sauternes are primarily made with the Semillon grape, along with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.
It is difficult to make Sauternes. The rot must be of just the right level, and only the most affected grapes can be picked, thus the yield for the wine from Sauternes is reduced substantially. Considered the most prestigious Chateau, Chateau D’Yquem, actually harvests one berry at a time, and only after they have reached ultimate perfection. While most Bordeaux vineyards claim to produce one bottle per vine, Chateau D’Yquem is reputed to produce one glass per vine, and perhaps even less in a dry year.
French Sauternes will always be considered one of the great treasures of the earth and understandably expensive. Chateau D’Yquem, considered the First “Great Growth” (from the Bordeaux Classification of 1855), is the benchmark for French Sauternes, and is frequently offered at the pre-release price of $200-300 per bottle.
Other producers, however, have become increasingly competitive both in quality and price. Within the 1885 Classification, there are a significant number of First Growths (Premiers Crus), which are also notable and prized, but trade at one quarter the price of Chateau D’Yquem. These include Chateau Climens, Rieussec (owned by Chateau Lafite Rothschilds), Chateau Suduiraut, Chateau Gilette and several others. The leading production at Chateau Gilette or the “Gilette Crème de Tete,” is particularly unusual in that it is kept “en reserve” for roughly 20 years prior to its release.
Lastly, there are a large number of Sauternes that are from the “petite” Chateau or surrounding regions, for example Mascaron par Ginestet, which can fit any man’s budget and always provide a memorable experience.
Cin-Cin!!!
